Camino de Santiago – day four, Golega / Tomar / Vargos

 

Being a pilgrim, no matter the mode of transport (hiking, cycling, etc.), requires both serenity and strategy – two forces that sometimes work in concert and, at other times, work in opposition. In Golega, the beginning of day four matched the serenity of sleep against the strategy of an early start. The reason? Having seen the weather, knowing we were about to enjoy yet another sunny day in the mid 30’s (Celsius), we wanted to cycle during some cooler morning hours. We enjoyed a nourishing 7 o’clock breakfast at the Hotel Lusitano, complete with amazing breads, cheeses, meats, and fresh juice (a meal that is still remembered fondly today). It is worth repeating that the Hotel Lusitano is one of those gems that really does spoil travelers, ourselves included. Combine the quality of our stay with the incredible off season rate we enjoyed, and you will understand why the value was perceived to be so high. With bikes again loaded, main water bottles plus reserves filled, and the goal of some cool early kilometres, we had our wheels rolling by 8:15.

 

 

Our early morning route included some smaller regional roads from Golega to Atalaia. After a brief water and sun break (yes, it was THAT hot, that early) in the shade of the Igreja Matriz, we continued our travel on narrow busy roads to picturesque Tomar (on the Rio Nabao). The road leading in (from the South) to Tomar was full of both history, and cycling fun – the N110 proved to be a smart routing choice. Tomar, steeped in history, was indeed a WOW destination – so beautiful, well preserved, and full of charm. Upon arrival, so that we could enjoy our destination by foot, our immediate challenge was to locate a safe place to store our bikes and bags. Thanks to a gracious offer from the staff at the tourist interpretive centre at the Mata Nacional dos Sete Montes, we were able to safely store our gear inside their facility (away from sight, and potential theft). With bikes securely locked at racks inside the park gates, we set off to walk and explore Tomar. We supported the local economy in many ways – a coffee in the main square, a stop at the Farmacia, a visit to a hardware store, plus a cold beer at a welcoming establishment. Our walk included a brief stop at the 15th century Synagogue of Tomar, a well preserved treasure near the city centre. Once again, TripAdvisor provided some great advice regarding where to eat, as we enjoyed a tasty lunch at the river view location of Tasquinha da Mitas. The variety and quality of the food selection was terrific, and we found ourselves savouring octopus, pork, chicken, fish, and ray. The high TripAdvsor rating for this family run restaurant was spot on.

 

 

The calories consumed at lunch were quickly burned during our hot 365 step hike up to the Convento de Cristo and Castelo de Tomar. As we ascended, the views at each hairpin turn along the wall of the climb made the effort worthwhile. The convent, castle, and grounds were magnificent. We had equal fun following the guided tour within the walls of the historic buildings, as we did getting lost down the many side corridors and extensions within the overall structure. Not to mention, in the mid afternoon sun of yet another hot day in Portugal, it was a relief to beat the heat in some cool rooms surrounded by ancient stone walls. When in Tomar, this Templar structure (an impressive historical site on the world list of UNESCO)  is an absolute must see!

 

 

Within our overall day in Tomar, our timing for enjoying specific activities was very deliberate. This included our 4pm visit to the centre square, in the lengthening shadows provided by City Hall. The beer stalls were all set up and waiting for us. It was World Cup time, and Portugal was set to play its first match of the 2014 tourney against Germany. Having collected our bikes and gear, all we needed were some chairs on which to sit and enjoy the much hyped pending match. Hmmmmm, what to do? Some quick thinking and bargaining by the ladies in our group garnered some chairs in exchange for guaranteed beer purchases – a deal that was a win-win for six thirsty pilgrims! Having been fortunate to experience the excitement of the FIFA World Cup while on European soil three times now, I can honestly say that there really is nothing like the feeling. Joining fans from many parts of the globe, all cheering for their respective countries, is an absolute international treat. Again, to have been in Europe during the past three cup events, is something for which I am very grateful. Sadly for fans of the local Portuguese side, this day proved to be a disappointment. However, the German supporters in attendance were delighted. Regardless of the lopsided outcome that day, it was truly memorable. Tomar was not our final destination, so we climbed aboard our two wheeled vessels and set sail (up an immediate long hill climb) for Vargos (Southwest of Tomar).

 

 

Cycling our final leg at the end of the afternoon of a hot day was yet another strong strategic pilgrimage decision. Riding during the hours between 6 and 8pm proved to be most enjoyable and refreshing. Given the late setting of the sun, we were able to ride in some fantastic golden hour lighting – thus, creating scenes that looked even more beautiful. Our final destination of Vargos, more specifically the Casa dos Vargos in the centre of the village, was quite easily attainable on this shorter 45km riding day. The Casa, in a word, is genuine. Situated beside a chapel built in the 1700’s, it remains a wonderful example of old world charm and splendour. The entire complex is beautiful, complete with a sprawling courtyard, a grand stone staircase, a long main building (housing the guest rooms), and an inviting terrace. Our hosts at Casa dos Vargos were gracious and accommodating, and went to great lengths to make sure our every need was exceeded. Long in to the evening (well, as long as we could stay awake!), we rested our cycling legs, nibbled on some olives and snacks, tried unsuccessfully to keep the cats out of the main house, and drank more delicious red Portuguese wine. 99km in to the cycling portion of our pilgrimage, we were pleased with our progress and sought a good night’s sleep, for we knew that our next day’s ride included the long climb to the elevation of Fatima.

Camino de Santiago – day three, Azambuja / Santarem / Golega

After two full days of walking and enjoying Lisboa (as a pre-pilgrim tourist), day three was the first full day of the cycling portion of our pilgrimage. Eventually, our cycling stage would reach a total of 370 kilometres, with that first kilometre pedaled on a steamy Sunday in June. Before the wheels began to roll, they needed to be picked up. Our group rented six first class bikes from Bike Iberia (near the beginning of the scenic waterfront bike trail) in downtown Lisboa. Every member of our team was SO impressed by the service of the amazing Tania and her attentive team. Five months later, when sharing tales of our trip, we are still singing the praises of our incredible Bike Iberia experience. Thanks again Tania!

So, with bikes loaded, GPS units synchronized and helmets on, we made our way through the streets of Lisboa to the nearest Metro station. A quick train ride later, we popped out above ground and embarked on another short cycle to the regional train station of Roma. Once again, we politely tucked (excuse me, pardon me, sorry about that) our six loaded bikes into a passenger train car, this time with a destination of Azambuja (NE of Lisboa). The decision to travel out of Lisboa by train was made for two reasons – a lack of scenery (we avoided heavy industrial areas), plus time constraints. Upon arrival in Az, we quickly grabbed provisions (a wonderful selection of bread, meat, and cheese) and water from a nearby Mercado. Finally ready for our first long leg on the bikes, we cycled Northeast on the N3.

Riding in the blazing afternoon sun of a 36 degree summer day in Portugal, we soon realized that rest and hydration would be even more important than anticipated. We stopped to refill water bottles so many times that we actually stopped counting. After a mid 30’s (degrees Celsius) climb up the long hill to lovely Santarem, we experienced our first spell of flat tire adversity. We expected to have at least some flats, and found that the culprit that took us off schedule this first time was a tiny shard of clear glass – the kind you only find when you cut your finger while running it along the inside of the tire. No problem! A cold beer (as well as a glass of delicious sangria) and a quick repair at the scenic hilltop Jardim Portas do Sol fixed ALL of our cycling sadness in less than an hour. Had our schedule allowed, we agreed that Santarem would definitely be one of the places we would explore further. For pilgrims that do have time, the area is worth your travel schedule investment.

 

Rolling on NE towards Golega, the scenery was beautiful, slightly hilly, and the roads mostly flat. The most striking aspects of the roads were the varied surfaces – some gravel, some smooth pavement, some cobble stones, and some concrete. Overall, we quickly realized that our average hourly distance was greatly affected when the roads were less than smooth – a valuable lesson. After 54 enjoyable kilometres, we arrived in Golega with tired “first day” legs, thirsty tongues, and empty stomachs. We spoiled ourselves with an enjoyable stay at the incredible four star Hotel Lusitano – indeed, a true four star hotel – which took care of our collective fatigue. A short walk to a local neighbourhood treasure, Cafe Central, proved to be exactly what we needed to cure our group’s thirst and hunger, as we enjoyed a wonderfully authentic (and filling) meal of tremendous value. Fed, watered, and stretched, we strolled back along quiet streets to our hotel to rest our legs and grab some much deserved sleep. All in all, we had a great first cycling day on our journey to Santiago….